¡Tramposos!

Okay, so we hopped a train.

Now, before you go all passing judgment on us and such, consider the circumstances:

1. We only actually had 26 days to complete our 30 day journey - a difference of at least 100km.
2. Before taking the train we walked 31Km (over 19 miles) that day
3. We knew we wanted a rest day in Oviedo and haven´t spent two nights in the same city (let alone bed) for over two weeks.
4. It´s our honeymoon. Even if we could cover the distance in town, we need a little energy at the end of the day to be married...

Yesterday, we walked from Llanes to Ribadesella, then took the afternoon train in to Oviedo. Aside from enjoying a day of not carrying our packs, we´ve found a lot to love about this city. The history is some of the best in Spain, and if you´re into Christian goodies (relics) this is the place. Among many things, they have what is said to be the towel that Veronica used to wipe Jesus´face as he carried his cross.

Oviedo was actually once a pilgrimage destination of its own, and John Paul II apparently did his camino backwards, starting in Santiago and ending here. They have an ancient statue of Jesus called El Salvador, which people journey from all over to pray before. As the saying goes:

Quien va a Santiago
Y no va al Salvador
Visita al criado
Y deja al Señor

Whoever goes to Santiago
And doesn´t go to El Salvador
Visits the Servant
And neglects the Lord

Ker and I spent a little time in prayer, then headed out to find a Cidra (Local cider they pour from over their head) and tapas. The Albergue is looking a little full here, so we may have to spend one more night in a local pension before setting out on the Camino Primativo tomorrow.

For those history buffs out there, the Camino Primativo is the oldest of the routes to Santiago. The first pilgrimage was that of king Alfonso II in the year 820. We´ll follow his route from Oviedo, through Lugo, and to Santiago. We´ve budgeted a bit of extra time, but we need to be there two weeks from Sunday. Your prayers are much appreciated.

Before we take off, here´s a few more things we´ve learned on the camino so far:

1. As opposed to marathons, the ones ringing cowbells for you on the camino are actual cows.
2. We have yet to encounter a meal at a restaurant that rivals the pure joy of a sandwich made from random purchases at a grocery store (especially last night´s pesto sauce)...the paella may be an exception.
3. Kerrie´s vegetarianism is being pushed to the extremes, and she´s responded gallantly. I´ve seen her tear apart a lobster head to toe and stare down a plate of fried sardines (heads to tails) without a word of complaint. It takes a lot for a vegetarian to eat something that still has eyes to look back at you.
4. Spain´s not big on beer, I´m read to get back to Belgium.
5. If you want to do the pilgrimage in a large group, please, don´t stay at the Albergue. It doesn´t seem very fair when a group of 16 move in on a place with 18 beds.
6. The prayers that you sent along with us can make all the difference on a difficult day (and there has already been several). It is much easier to forget our own pain and struggels when we remember the burdens that others are carrying every day.
7. We love you all, and no matter how good this adventure ever gets, we never forget where our homes and hearts rest.